Reflecting Back

My hiking began in Summer 2006 after I retired from Bank of America.   I embarked on the never-ending “project” of fitness - get healthy and lose weight – by hiking and swimming.  Both continue to date.

Mount Diablo (3864 ft) is in our backyard – more appropriately, our house is in the foothills of Mount Diablo.  Therefore, it was only logical that my hiking experience started there.  Initially on paved roads, then trails.  Soon, I joined “casual” hiking groups and became a regular.  (These hiking groups announce weekly in newspapers and via emails, the date, time and place where the next hike will be, as well as the distance, time and difficulty level of the hike.   You show up at the designated place, sign the waiver, and hike.)   It is great to have the company of like-minded people, share stories and experiences, and encourage each other to do more.

Over the years, I had heard stories of people hiking all the way to the top of Mount Diablo, and wanted to see if I could do it.   One Saturday, I went to join that day’s hike, but had missed the email about change of location.  Since no one showed up where I was, I just decided to make my own hike -- to the top of Mount Diablo, and made it in about 3 ½ hours. I took a more scenic route on the way back and returned in 2 ½ hours.  Six hours including some time at the top.   Coming downhill, however, I forgot to tighten my shoelaces and consequently, stubbed both my big toes against the shoe.  It was really painful for the last mile or two.   Eventually, both big toe nails fail off and new ones grew.  But I was happy with my accomplishment.

The leap from Mount Diablo to my first “real” trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) Nepal was purely accidental -- and monumental.  Trekkers generally train themselves by first climbing the Half Dome in Yosemite, Mount Whitney, Mount Shasta, Mount Rainier, Mount McKinley, Mount Kilimanjaro, before attempting Everest Base Camp.  I skipped all the in-between steps and went directly to EBC.

Not being a climber, going to the top of Mount Everest was never my goal.   Besides, in the amount of money it takes to make it to the top, it is possible to see / trek the rest of the world.

In January 2009, a colleague and I happened to attend someone's presentation about their EBC Nepal trek the previous year.  We were both hooked and earnestly planned to follow their route.  The colleague had to drop out later, but by then I was all psyched to go.  So I did three months later - in April 2009.


After the trek, I realized how unprepared I was - about the difficulty of the trek, the terrain, the risk/rewards and the magnitude of it.  Furthermore, I then wondered how do I top the EBC adventure with something grander?


Well, another opportunity kind of sneaked in.  If I had not done EBC in 2009, my fallback choices in the Himalayas would have been Kailash-Mansarovar or Annapurna circuit.  

Hindus consider Kailash-Mansarovar a holy pilgrimage (Yatra).  It had been very difficult for most foreigners to enter Tibet, for a long time.   Only in the last few decades, it became possible to do this trek – initially from India, and now Nepal. (Tourist dollars help!!!)  Because of a treaty between Nepal and China, one can travel to Tibet from Kathmandu with a special visa/travel permit AND only with a tour group arranged as a travel package.  You get a single entry group visa, which requires you to stay with the tour operator the entire time (they keep your passports.)  And any other China visa you may already have is cancelled.

Annapurna circuit is lot more convenient and cheaper.   Annapurna lies entirely in Nepal, and travel groups in Kathmandu are able to customize the trip to suit your needs while making more money for themselves.

In January 2011, I got an email from an Indian travel group about their Kailash-Mansarovar trek.  The price was right and the timing was perfect.  When I explored further, I realized that the groups in India subcontract the tour to a group in Kathmandu, Nepal, who arrange the trip, take you to the Tibet border, and in turn, subcontract to their Tibetan counterparts.  Why then shouldn’t I cut out one middleman and go directly with the group in Kathmandu – one I was familiar with previously.  But two problems cropped up.

Just as I was about to book the trek, I got an invitation to teach a short course in late September at LanZhou University, GanSu, China.   What a coincidence, I thought.   I can do the trek and then go on to LanZhou in the same trip.  But most treks to Kailash end in August.  I could do a private group with minimum two people in September, but costs would be much higher.  Then I found another group from India with a September trek. 


All looked fine and I was ready to pay the deposit, when it became clear that this new plan was not workable either - as a SINGLE trip.  The China/Tibet visa you get for Kailash Yatra is a single entry group visa, and it expires as soon as you return back to Kathmandu.  I will then need to apply and get a brand new visa before entering China again.  The time was limited (3 days) – and what if the visa is rejected?   I couldn’t take that chance.

Back to square one – I thought.  I almost would do the trek via Kathmandu, Nepal in June/July/August, and then separately go to LanZhou after obtaining a separate visa to China.  Or, I could get the visa to China first, and then find a tour operator in Lhasa, Tibet – cutting out both middlemen – in India and Nepal.

That plan seemed to work much better.  The tour operator custom designed a trip for two (my son Kedar and I) AND added EBC Tibet to the tour as well.  How can you beat that?

By itself, trek to EBC Nepal is preferable any day over EBC Tibet.  But having already done the Nepal side, it would be interesting to experience the north face of the giant mountain peak.   Hope the weather cooperates.

Beyond General Information available elsewhere

Plenty of general information is available from your tour operator's website. Only some key items are listed here including our own observations/experiences.

Weather

Weather conditions in Tibet from May to September can be expected to be dry and sunny, with some rains in July and August. Day time temperatures can be as high as 22 degrees centigrade. Even if the temperature is not too high, the intense sun at high altitude can make it feel hotter. There can be an incredible drop in temperature from early afternoon to evening. Temperature at night could be as low as 0 to -10 degrees centigrade at altitudes of 5000 meters, our highest camp during the Parikrama/Kora. Be prepared for changing weather even during a single 24 hour period. Tibetans are usually overdressed with layers and wear a jacket on top. Tourists should do the same.

Fitness

Please start to get in shape NOW!!! A good 30 minutes or more walk, jogging daily, stretching and regular exercise should put you in the right shape. Concentrate on your heart and legs - Aerobics.  Increase your walking habit, practice climbing little hills/mountains, start doing some exercises with the consultation from your doctor. Reduce drinking alcohol, alcoholic beverages and smoking habits.

You will likely carry a day pack (with snacks, filled water bottles, medicines and other necessities - not to mention, a camera.) - say 5 Kg or 10 pounds. Practice your hikes carrying similar weights.

This is also a good time to have a health check done to make sure, among other things, that you are fit enough to make it to high altitudes without any serious medical problems. Some tour operators - mainly from India and Nepal - require a health certificate from a reputed doctor.

Health Precautions

Oxygen is less at higher altitudes. The inclement weather and high altitude induces certain illness generally not encountered over the plains. Headache, nausea, lethargy, breathlessness, general uneasiness, high irritability, light loss of balance, disorientation, incoherence and insomnia are a few.

Although we slept well on most days - sometimes as long as 10-12 hours (waiting for sun to rise), we would still feel sluggish. The sleep was sort of restless, with nightmares that were incomprehensible. First few days, our night breathing was also not even. We needed lot of deep breaths to make up for lack of oxygen at that altitude. With time, these symptoms went away.

Anyone, irrespective of the age, sex and physical fitness, may be affected. Gradual acclimatization and drinking lot of water is the best answer. Deliberately slow down all activities and follows these rules:  

• Rest.
• Relax-do not exert, be excited.  
• Reduce talking.  
• Walk slowly – adopt one third of your speed and space.  
• Keep your load light.  
• Walk for 15 minutes and rest for 5 minutes.  
• Whenever you feel uncomfortable, just stop; rest and relax.  
• Ignore the sudden outbursts of fellow pilgrims and avoid arguments.  
• Observe silence with smile.  
• Never go too high and too fast.  
• Avoid smoking, alcohol, drugs and intoxicants.  
• Consume plenty of liquids; never proceed with an empty stomach.  
• Chant a prayer or visualize everything around to suit your pleasant thoughts or put on the earphones and listen to your favorite music.  
• Be careful not to catch a cold. It is better to be over clothed than under protected. Avoid drinking water from lake Streams or rivers -- your system is not conditioned for this.  
• Protect yourself against dust and direct sunshine during the long stretches of driving. Face, feet and hands must be well protected.  
• The uneven ground, steep slope and slushy banks are full of potholes. Do not combine walking and sight seeing together.  
• Always listen to your guide or the one with experience. Never leave the group.

Clothing

Clothing for both extremes of climate and temperature. Evening will generally be cold. Layers work best. To avoid foot injuries or sprains, use high ankle hiking boots that fit you snugly, have good traction and rigid soles. Toe protection and waterproof (Gore-Tex) is highly recommended. Be sure to have dry socks at all times.

Accessories

1.  Hand Sanitizer
2. Toilet tissues
3.  Headlamp / Flash Light with extra batteries
4.  Sun Glasses, Suntan lotion
5.  Ziplock bags, sun screen, chapstick, moisturizers

6. Water purification tablets
7. Hiking Poles / Walking sticks

8. Sleeping bag with liner


Currency

All major foreign currencies and TCs are accepted in return for Yuan, the basic unit of Chinese Currency. Bank of China has branches everywhere. Many foreign banks have reciprocal arrangements with Chinese banks where no ATM fees are charged. Foreign currency exchange fees may still apply.

Accommodation

Accommodations in most places are very basic without any modem amenities. Room will include 2-6 beds - twin or double, with mattress, pillow and a couple of blankets. They are not washed for long periods of time. Using your own sleeping bag or at least, sleeping bag liner is highly advisable.

Food and Beverage

Bring sufficient supply of snacks - granola or high energy bars, chocolates, nuts, trail mix - to last for the entire trip. Instant noodles are another life saver - if you like noodles. (For best price, purchase them in larger cities like Lhasa or Shigatse. The prices go up, the farther west you go.) Hot water is available at all restaurants and hotels. Then again, staple diet for Tibetans is noodles. For as little as 5-15 Yuans, you get plenty of noodles. In better restaurants, expect to pay 25-50 Yuans for a meal. Another item easy to carry is Duck Eggs in Soy Sauce. They come sealed in air tight brown plastic and need no refrigeration. Egg's brown color is not appetizing, but it tastes good. Most common drink is a variety of tea, but soda and beer are available pretty much every place - all the way to Mount Everest Base Camp.

Insurance

It is a good idea to insure yourself against sickness, EMERGENCY RESCUE, accident hospitalization, etc. Coverage excluding trip cancellation is very inexpensive ($20-50 for up to 35 days, depending on your age.) from https://www.travelexinsurance.com and provides sufficient coverage in case of a loss.

Communication

The last place to make any international calls is in Darchen, Tibet. China Mobile is everywhere, the charges are reasonable (same is true for the internet connection.) Thanks to the need for military communication, cell phone signal is everywhere - EVEN at the Mount Everest Base Camp. And incoming calls are free.

Visas and Documentation

You need a China Visa (unless you come via Kathmandu, Nepal), TTB, ATP and Military permits depending on where you will be traveling. The tour operators know how to get them without hassle (to you), and when. Once you are in Tibet, you are the responsibility of the Tour Guide and Driver. You rarely have to present yourself at any checkpoints (except when entering and exiting Quomolangma (Everest) Nature Reserve, and at the Base Camp Military Checkpoint.) The Driver and Guide have to present their own IDs, your passports and travel permits, which remain in the Guide's possession during the entire trip and are surrendered when you leave Tibet.) Only in big cities, passport is required to check in to a hotel.

You  may need the following documents:

China visa or Tibet Group visa - To enter Tibet via Mainland China, apply for a Chinese Visa in a Chinese Embassy in your country (If you enter Tibet from Nepal, no China visa is needed, only Tibet Group visa.)  Visas for individual travel in China are very easy to get from most Chinese embassies, but do not mention visit to any places in Tibet when applying.  Typical destinations to mention: Beijing, Xi'an, Shanghai, Chengdu-Sichuan, Yunnan.

Most Chinese embassies and consulates will issue a standard 30-day, single entry tourist visa ("L) in three to five working days.  For those working, studying or living temporarily in China, other Visas such as "F" Visa,"X" Visa or "Z" Visa, are needed.  All these visa holders can travel to Tibet with the Tibet entry permits and other travel permits.  Visa fees are the highest for U.S. citizens - $140.  However, for the same fee, you could also obtain a 30, 60, 90-day visa with single, double or multiple entry.  A 30-day multiple entry visa is good for a 12 month period during which your each stay could be max. 30 days.  A weekend trip to Hong Kong counts as leaving China, and re-starts your 30 day clock.  

My trip was total 35 days, and I needed a business visa "F" for giving lectures after the Tibet Trip.  I applied for, and got a 60 day, 12 month, multiple entry visa without any hassles.   

If you enter Tibet via Nepal, you need to join a group to Tibet with a group visa -- not with individual China visa.  If you already have a China visa, the Chinese embassy in Nepal will cancel the individual China visa.

Tibet Travel Permit (TTB) - without this you cannot fly or take a train to Tibet.  This is all you need for Lhasa and surrounding areas.

Alien's Travel Permit (ATP/also called PSB permit) - without this you can not travel to those not-fully open areas.  Each place you plan to visit must be listed on the permit beforehand.  This is checked at multiple checkpoints, although the checking is nominal in some places.  One checkpoint we crossed was just opening for the day, and they let us pass without checking.  Another was closed by the time we reached there one evening - again no checking.  Even the in-person checkpoint mentioned above at Quomolangma Reserve checked us only on the way back.  We took a different route to enter the Reserve, where there was no checkpoint.

Military Permit - needed at key sensitive places such as Kailash region and Everest Base Camp.