In 2009, my first major trek - and what was to be the most memorable journey of my life up to that point - was to the Mount Everest Base Camp in Nepal.
Two years later, I was invited to teach in China, and thus this opportunity came up. Before doing anything else in China, I headed straight to Western Tibet for Mount Kailash and Lake Mansarovar (so named for the reflex of Brahma’s mind. Brahma's daughter - Brahmaputra river originates near here.) Circumabulation of temples or deity images is an integral part of Hindu and Buddhist devotional practice - also known in Sanskrit as pradakśiṇā. This holy mountain and this sacred lake is no exception. Pilgrims of Buddhists, Hindus and Bon-pos (followers of the pre-Buddhist Tibetan shamanistic) faith do so - preferably on Full Moon day. Everyone except Bons go clockwise.
No one has climbed Kailash (22000 feet), although legend has it that the Tibetan mystic Milarepa’s ascent during the 11th century marked the victory of Buddhism in Tibet. China reportedly permitted some Spanish mountaineers to climb in 2001, but this was resisted by the Tibetans. Later, another climber voluntarily aborted his mission out of respect for the pilgrims and their religious beliefs.
At 15,000 feet, Manasarovar is one of the highest freshwater lakes in the world. It has a circumference of nearly 110 km, while circumambulation of Mount Kailash (which lies just a few miles to the north) traverses about 52 km of mountain trails. Both are located in a remote part of Western Tibet in the trans-Himalaya, a range much older than the Himalayas.
Coming from the South (from India/Nepal), pilgrims first cross the Himalayas, reach the plateau between the two mountain ranges and Lake Mansarovar. After bathing in the Lake (and reciting prayers), pilgrims set out for Kailash Kora (Tibetan word for circumambulation). Up on return, they once again bathe in Mansarovar before returning to India - sinless! Indians have been making this pilgrimage for hundreds, if not thousands, of years - usually a one-way journey for many because they won't make it back, True once-in-a-lifetime journey.
I had heard/read stories from modern-day pilgrims (trekkers) who made this journey and lived to tell. Their intense descriptions and impressive photographs had kindled my interest, and I knew that I would make this journey some day - just didn't know when that opportunity might arise. Physical difficulties of getting there and time needed to make the journey - not my ability to complete it - were the primary obstacles.
Until late 1970s, Indians were not permitted to visit Tibet due to strained relationship with China and unrest in Tibet. After that, Beijing slowly began allowing a limited number of pilgrims - only through Indian government sponsored tours - it took 30 days. Pilgrims had to pass physical fitness tests, and carrying political literature was banned. (Both still true.) Nowadays, private tours are also possible from Kathmandu, Nepal (most popular,) or Lhasa, Tibet - time now shortened to 15-19 days. Although it would be possible to cover the distances even faster with nice paved roads these days, time it takes to acclimatize remains unchanged. For us, logistics didn't work out from India or Nepal, so we booked a private tour from Lhasa, Tibet. The smaller the group, the more the flexibility of modifying the tour to your taste and needs - but also more expensive.
Two years later, I was invited to teach in China, and thus this opportunity came up. Before doing anything else in China, I headed straight to Western Tibet for Mount Kailash and Lake Mansarovar (so named for the reflex of Brahma’s mind. Brahma's daughter - Brahmaputra river originates near here.) Circumabulation of temples or deity images is an integral part of Hindu and Buddhist devotional practice - also known in Sanskrit as pradakśiṇā. This holy mountain and this sacred lake is no exception. Pilgrims of Buddhists, Hindus and Bon-pos (followers of the pre-Buddhist Tibetan shamanistic) faith do so - preferably on Full Moon day. Everyone except Bons go clockwise.
No one has climbed Kailash (22000 feet), although legend has it that the Tibetan mystic Milarepa’s ascent during the 11th century marked the victory of Buddhism in Tibet. China reportedly permitted some Spanish mountaineers to climb in 2001, but this was resisted by the Tibetans. Later, another climber voluntarily aborted his mission out of respect for the pilgrims and their religious beliefs.
At 15,000 feet, Manasarovar is one of the highest freshwater lakes in the world. It has a circumference of nearly 110 km, while circumambulation of Mount Kailash (which lies just a few miles to the north) traverses about 52 km of mountain trails. Both are located in a remote part of Western Tibet in the trans-Himalaya, a range much older than the Himalayas.
Coming from the South (from India/Nepal), pilgrims first cross the Himalayas, reach the plateau between the two mountain ranges and Lake Mansarovar. After bathing in the Lake (and reciting prayers), pilgrims set out for Kailash Kora (Tibetan word for circumambulation). Up on return, they once again bathe in Mansarovar before returning to India - sinless! Indians have been making this pilgrimage for hundreds, if not thousands, of years - usually a one-way journey for many because they won't make it back, True once-in-a-lifetime journey.
I had heard/read stories from modern-day pilgrims (trekkers) who made this journey and lived to tell. Their intense descriptions and impressive photographs had kindled my interest, and I knew that I would make this journey some day - just didn't know when that opportunity might arise. Physical difficulties of getting there and time needed to make the journey - not my ability to complete it - were the primary obstacles.
Until late 1970s, Indians were not permitted to visit Tibet due to strained relationship with China and unrest in Tibet. After that, Beijing slowly began allowing a limited number of pilgrims - only through Indian government sponsored tours - it took 30 days. Pilgrims had to pass physical fitness tests, and carrying political literature was banned. (Both still true.) Nowadays, private tours are also possible from Kathmandu, Nepal (most popular,) or Lhasa, Tibet - time now shortened to 15-19 days. Although it would be possible to cover the distances even faster with nice paved roads these days, time it takes to acclimatize remains unchanged. For us, logistics didn't work out from India or Nepal, so we booked a private tour from Lhasa, Tibet. The smaller the group, the more the flexibility of modifying the tour to your taste and needs - but also more expensive.
My trip was motivated by the fascination for Manasarovar and Kailash – the sacred lake and the holy peak, and others' descriptions of surrounding rugged beauty. The trek itself is not tough or dangerous if one acclimatizes slowly. Most of the time, you are walking through valleys, by the river banks, watching numerous waterfalls, and with plenty of human companionship - each walking at their own pace, for their own reasons. Some even prostrating the entire route. There were also horses, yaks and dogs around. Every so often, there would be small huts where you could buy lunch, snacks or water. Where there is need, someone will fill it!
It has been several years since we walked around that sacred lake and the Snow Jewel Mountain (in 2011.) The memories are still fresh, and enlarged posters are still on the walls. I now understand why, unlike all other human figure gods, Lord Shiva is represented by an unusual looking idol.
I don't remember asking, nor anyone explaining, it either. Only when I first saw it from a distance, I instantly understood. The landscape looks very much like it is symbolized above - a mountain in the center with rivers flowing on both sides towards right. Because so few Hindus actually make/made it to Kailash, they worshiped the miniature version.
Alternate explanation I heard in Nepal - also implied by the name Shiva Lingam (genitals) - as a symbol of the energy and potential of Shiva himself.
Whether Manasarovar is the reflex of Brahma’s mind and Kailash the abode of Shiva, I am in no position to say. But these beautiful myths are appropriate to the beauty and splendor that I witnessed there. My memories of Manasarovar, light shimmering outwards from its surface as if touched with a shower of diamonds, preserve a sense of transcendent things. Kailash was always visible from the lake’s banks, a point of stillness in a spinning world - in fact was considered the center of the earth, and the origin of all seven major rivers of India.. There are mountain peaks that rise higher. But this one conveys steadfastness, absolution and mystery. That seems to be the reason why so many people dream about and seek to come to this place.
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| Lord Shiva (Vyadeshwar) at Guhaghar, Maharashatra, India |
Alternate explanation I heard in Nepal - also implied by the name Shiva Lingam (genitals) - as a symbol of the energy and potential of Shiva himself.
Whether Manasarovar is the reflex of Brahma’s mind and Kailash the abode of Shiva, I am in no position to say. But these beautiful myths are appropriate to the beauty and splendor that I witnessed there. My memories of Manasarovar, light shimmering outwards from its surface as if touched with a shower of diamonds, preserve a sense of transcendent things. Kailash was always visible from the lake’s banks, a point of stillness in a spinning world - in fact was considered the center of the earth, and the origin of all seven major rivers of India.. There are mountain peaks that rise higher. But this one conveys steadfastness, absolution and mystery. That seems to be the reason why so many people dream about and seek to come to this place.
