The next adventure - 2011 edition

Kailash-Manasarovar has the most alluring and powerful landscapes in the Himalayas. The incredible journey of nearly 3000 kms (1900 miles) roundtrip from Lhasa, traverses Tibetan highlands, the world’s highest plains, crosses rivers, conquers fierce sun during the days and numbing cold at nights. 

Mt Kailash, at an altitude of 22,027 ft, considered the sacred abode of the gods, and the exact center of the entire universe, is the holiest mountain of all.  The mountain is famous for its unique four-faced shape like that of a handle of a millstone, which happen to match the cardinal directions of the compass. The cleft on its southern side intersected by a series of rocks forms a sacred symbol 'Swastika.'  The Kailash circuit is a 32.5 miles strenuous trail crossing the route's highest pass Dolma La at 18,466 ft.!  The entire journey, which entails long rides by Land Cruisers or minivans, and a three-day trek in the remotest part around Mt Kailash, promises to be the most fascinating experience of your lifetime!!!

Believers relate this mountain to Mt. Meru of Hindu mythology.  In ancient Hindu scriptures, Mt. Meru has been described as a mountain lying in the Himalayan range with its four faces made of four different jewels (gold, crystal, ruby and lapis lazuli), where gods resided and from where four great rivers originated.  It appears that Mt. Meru is really Mount Kailash, which forms the spire of the ‘Roof of the World’ and radiating from it are a number of mighty rivers taking their course towards the east, the west, the north-west, and the south - Brahmaputra (Yarlung Tsangpo), Indus, Sutlej, and Karnali (which feeds into the Ganges), respectively.  The Indus and the Brahmaputra, like two gigantic arms emerging from the region, embrace the entirety of the Himalayas and the Indian subcontinent: Indus flows into the Arabian Sea to the west; Brahmaputra into the Bay of Bengal to the east. 

Map of Kailash shows our trek route, places from where Kailash is visible, and daily distances.  Locals do the entire circuit in one day - usually on Full Moon (Sep 12, 2011 in our case.)   Parikrama (Kora / circumambulation) washes away all your past and future sins, and you are re-born anew.  And if you do it 108 times, you are cleared for a direct entry to the heavens - "Nirvana!"

Photos from our trek

Typical Itinerary from Lhasa: we took a detour on the way back to visit Mt Everest from the north.

Mount Everest [pronounced Eve-rest] – phantasmagoric beauty coupled with legends of bravery and sheer madness – an absolute must for those who wish to get close to this mighty mountain that stands 29,035 ft tall!!  At the Base Camp, you are ONLY 12 km away but 11,000 ft shy of the peak.

View from Tibet - North Face of Mt Everest

Or, you can just imagine being there, looking around, at the link.

About two Everest base camps:

South Base Camp (Nepal) at an altitude of 5,360 metres (17,590 ft) (28°0′26″N 86°51′34″E), 

The Everest Base Camp trek on the south side is one of the most popular trekking routes in the Himalayas, and is visited by thousands of trekkers each year.  It is way more strenuous than the one in Tibet.

Trekkers usually fly from Kathmandu to Lukla to begin the trek.  The flight is an adventure in itself - just watch an aircraft land at Lukla airport.  From Lukla, climbers trek upward to the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar at 3,440 metres (11,290 ft) following the valley of the Dudh Kosi river.  Climbers allow a day of rest here for acclimatization.  They then trek two days to Dingboche, 4,260 metres (13,980 ft) and rest another day for further acclimatization.  Another two days takes them to Everest Base Camp via Gorakshep, the flat field below Kala Patthar, 5,545 metres (18,192 ft) and Mt. Pumori.  Although Mount Everest is NOT visible from this base camp itself, you do see it every day from Day 2 onwards.  From the base camp, you are mere 7 kms away from the peak, if of course you dare to climb another 11 thousand feet!  Typical trek to the top requires 90 days.  I visited South Base Camp in 2009.

North Base Camp (Tibet) at 5,545 metres (18,192 ft) 28°14′28″N 86°51′6″E).

These days, road access to North Base Camp is by a dirt road branching to the South from the Friendship Highway (between Lhasa and Kathmandu.)  Cars are allowed up to Tent Camp, just 4 km shy of the Base Camp.  Shuttle buses take tourists rest of the way, OR you can hike.  Other than altitude, getting permits is the only challenge.  A visit to the North Base Camp requires a permit (ATP) from the Chinese government and a military permit, on top of the permit required to visit Tibet itself (TTB).  Such permits can be easily arranged via travel companies in Lhasa as part of a "required" travel package that includes a local vehicle, local driver, and local translator/guide.  If flying in to Lhasa, you will also need a Chinese visa.  

Not wanting to miss the opportunity to see Mount Everest from both sides, we customized our tour to include it on the way back from Kailash.  We met several other private tour groups who had done the exact same thing.

Although preparing for subsequent treks is a lot easier than your very first one, each trek is unique in its own way -- and for me, a fun challenge.

At the moment, we have a visa to China (valid for one year, multiple entry), all tickets have been purchased and tour booked. Tibet Travel permit will be obtained 16 days prior to departure (i.e. mid-August.)  And the excitement is rising...